Thursday March 22, Vienna
A day without concerts is a day for sightseeing! And I’m happy to say the rain seems to have left us, at least for now. My first adventure of the morning was figuring out the cute little washing machine that’s right in my bathroom – with everything in German, and quite mechanics from American washers, it took a little experimenting to get it right. But it is definitely nice to have the machine right here in the apartment. That’s an unusual luxury for a traveler!
My sightseeing day began with a visit to Haydn’s last home, here in Vienna. He clearly was doing well in his career, because he bought a one-story house and had a second story added. There were several rooms of memorabilia, and his own piano; in a "Brahms room" there were articles of Brahms’ furniture, including a clavichord that had once belonged to Haydn, and later was owned by Brahms who apparently venerated Haydn. So that was all very interesting. And it’s heartening to see that places like this and Schubert’s house, though much smaller than the buildings around them, have been preserved so carefully through the years.
Haydn’s house is just a couple of blocks off Vienna’s main shopping artery, Mariahilfernstrasse, so I did a little shopping while I was there, mostly back at the game store. :-) Just small items this time, I promise! Then, being in a musical frame of mind, I set out to find Schubert’s last home, not all that far from Haydn’s house, though easier by U-bahn than to walk. I did find the house, and it is a museum, but with limited open hours which won’t coincide with my schedule. So I’ll have to save that for my next trip to Vienna! [Ditto Haydn’s home at Eisenstadt, which doesn’t open for the season until March 30, which is the day I’m flying to Barcelona. They’d open it a day early just for me, but with a 50 Euro (about $70) surcharge! I’ll wait. I saw his Vienna house this trip.]
Wandered through the Naschtmarkt, the restaurant and outdoor food market strip that runs for many blocks – fun just to see all the things that are being offered! Then I decided to finish out the day at the Kunsthistoriche Museum – the Museum of Fine Arts. As usual here in Vienna, a magnificent building (twin to the Natural History museum across the plaza). And a magnificent art collection as well. Wonderful rooms of Titians (though not a single redhead!), Tintorettos, Raphaels, Breugels, Rembrandts, etc. All fairly early stuff, nothing more modern than Reubens. I was especially taken with the Breugels and also Flemish painter Lucas van Valkenborch http://www.wga.hu/frames-e.html?/html/v/valkenbo/index.html , especially his series of paintings depicting various seasons. I always seem drawn to paintings of winter scenes, and his Winter Landscape was no exception.
Then there was the antiquities collection – Roman, Greek, Egyptian, etc. Very extensive, and beautifully presented. I loved the Art Deco-Egyptian motifs in the Egyptian rooms – such a wonderful marriage of styles. And we mustn’t forget the famous faience hippo! It really is pretty cool. http://www.globalegyptianmuseum.org/detail.aspx?id=4966
For once I hit something on the right day – Thursday the museum stays open late, so I was able to explore there until after 7 PM. Then dinner at an Italian restaurant across the street from my apartment, and back here to rest my weary feet!
Love to all,
Carlyn
Last updated 12/07. Copyright
2007 by Richard C. Morenus. Questions? Send email to richard.c@morenus.org